Torie Jayne's new book, Stylish Home Sewing (CICO Books, £14.99), is a firm favourite in the HomeStyle office. It's packed full of sewing projects for every space in the house, and we're lucky enough to share three bedroom makes which are perfect for a spot of Bank Holiday stitching.
Easy to sew, this rose garland makes a colorful decoration strung above a bed, looped over hooks on the wall, or used as a party decoration. As it incorporates battery-powered lights, you could also use it as atmospheric lighting outdoors in dry weather, though it wouldn’t be rainproof.
You will need
21 x 30cm rectangle of felt for each rose
Battery-powered Christmas tree mini-lights
A flower template (click here to view)
1 For each rose, cut out the pieces from the felt rectangle as follows: transfer the templates onto your fabric using a water-soluble marker or a dressmaker’s pencil; you will need five large rose pieces and two small rose pieces. Cut out the seven pieces. In the center of one of the five large felt pieces, use small, sharp scissors to make a small hole.
2 Feed a light bulb through the hole in the felt piece, with the wires coming out of the back. Using a hot-glue gun, secure the bulb in place on the felt.
3 Fold one large rose piece into quarters and place on top of another large rose piece, which will be the base. Position the folded piece with the folded corner at the center of the base as shown. Use the hot-glue gun to secure each piece.
4 Fold a second large rose piece into quarters and place it on the base next to the first folded one, with the folded corner at the center of the base as shown. Use the hot-glue gun to secure in place as in step two. Repeat for a third large rose piece.
5 Add the remaining large rose piece to the base, so that you have four folded pieces arranged around the base piece; glue in place as in step two.
6 Fold one of the small rose pieces into quarters and place on top of the large folded pieces. Glue in place as in step two. Fold the remaining small rose piece into quarters and place it next to the previous one; glue in place.
7 Repeat the above steps until you have a felt rose on each bulb.
Made from linen and decorated with covered buttons, used for the button-tufting, this simple headboard rests on the bedstead or mattress, while the ties at the top, looped over hooks on the wall, prevent it from tipping forward. And not only is it very pretty, but it is supremely comfortable to lean against when reading in bed.
You will need
Five 40cm lengths of lace, ribbon, or twill tape, for ties
Two 7cm x 152cm strips of linen, for upper and lower gussets
Two 7cm x 52cm strips of linen, for side gussets
Two 52cm x 152cm rectangles of linen, for front and back panels
Matching sewing thread
100 percent polyester high-loft fiberfill toy filling
Matte embroidery cotton or embroidery floss
Embroidery needle and upholstery needle
Thirty-two 15mm covered buttons
Five hooks with appropriate fittings
The finished headboard measures 48cm x 140cm x 5cm and fits a standard double bed. To fit a different-sized bed, measure the width and add 12cm. Similarly, you could make the headboard a different height—just add 4cm to the desired finished height. You may need to alter the number of buttons and ties to correspond.
1 Pin a length of lace, ribbon, or twill tape to the right side of the upper gusset strip, 1cm from one end, and equidistant from the long edges. Repeat at the other end of the upper gusset strip, and then space the remaining three lengths evenly between them. Stitch in place as shown. Be careful not to catch the ends of these ties in the seams you stitch in steps two-four.
2 To assemble the gusset, pin each end of the upper gusset strip to one end of each side gusset strip with right sides together. Pin each end of the lower gusset strip to the other end of each side gusset strip. Stitch 1cm seams, starting and stopping 1cm from the ends of each seam. Press the seams open.
3 Pin the front panel to the front edge of the gusset, with right sides together and raw edges even, matching the seams in the gusset with the corners of the front panel. Stitch a 1cm seam around all four edges, pivoting the fabric at the corners. (The unstitched portions at the ends of the gusset seams will open up to allow you to do this.)
4 Pin the back panel to the back edge of the gusset in the same way as in step 3. Starting in the middle of the lower edge, stitch a 1cm seam around all four edges, pivoting the fabric at the corners, and stopping 12cm from where you started, to leave an opening. Snip off the corners of the seam allowances. Turn the cover right side out through the opening, and use a blunt-ended tool such as the rounded end of a chopstick to carefully push out the corners.
5 Using a water-soluble pen or a dressmaker’s pencil, mark where your buttons will go on the right side of the front and in the corresponding places on the right side of the back. Here, the 16 pairs of buttons are spaced 15cm apart. Stuff the cover with filling. Turn in the seam allowances of the opening and slipstitch closed.
6 With an embroidery needle threaded with embroidery cotton, hand sew running stitch 1cm from the edge around the entire headboard on both the front and back panels. The stitching should go through both the front/back panel and the gusset, creating a narrow flange all around the front and another around the back.
7 For the button-tufting, thread a long upholstery needle with embroidery cotton. Starting with one of the central pairs of marks done in step 5, insert the needle into the mark at the back. While holding on to the end of the embroidery cotton, push the needle through the padding and the mark on the front, then through the shank of a button, then back through the front mark and padding, and out again at the back where it first went in. Now thread it through the shank of a second button and tie the ends in a slip knot, as shown. Pull the ends tight and fasten securely. Repeat for the remaining buttons. Mount the hooks on the wall so that one will be above each tie and at a height to allow the headboard to sit on the bed. Fasten the ties and loop them over the hooks.
ROUND BUTTONED PILLOW
This classic throw pillow looks great in any living room, regardless of the decor, and its different elements – front, back, gusset, piping, covered buttons – give you plenty of scope for incorporating contrasting fabrics.
You will need
One 109cm x 9cm rectangle each of fabric and fusible interfacing, for gusset
Two 109cm lengths each of bias binding and piping cord
Matching sewing thread
Two 109cm x 20cm rectangles of fabric, for top and bottom
100 percent high-loft polyester toy filling
Embroidery thread in same colour as fabric
Embroidery needle and upholstery needle
Two 25mm covered buttons
The finished pillow measures 34cm in diameter and is 7cm deep.
1 Following the manufacturer’s instructions, iron the interfacing to the fabric piece for the gusset. Using the bias tape (bias binding) and piping cord, make two 109cm lengths of piping. Pin one length of the piping along the upper edge of the interfaced gusset strip, with right sides together and raw edges even. The piping cord itself should be 1cm from the edge. Using a zipper foot, machine baste in place as close to the piping cord as possible. Repeat to attach the other length of piping to the lower edge of the gusset.
2 With right sides together, pin one long edge of one large fabric rectangle to one long edge of the gusset, with right sides together and raw edges even, sandwiching the piping between the two pieces. Using a zipper foot, stitch a 1cm seam, as close as possible to the piping cord. Repeat to attach the remaining large fabric rectangle to the other long edge of the gusset.
3 Fold the entire piece in half crosswise, with right sides together, aligning the raw edges and the ends of the piping. Pin the two ends of the piece together, forming a cylinder, then stitch a 1cm seam. Press the seam open.
4 Press 1cm to the wrong side along the top and bottom raw edges of this cylinder. Thread an embroidery needle with thread. Starting at the seam, hand-sew running stitch along each pressed-under edge. On the lower edge, pull up the ends of this floss to gather up the bottom of the pillow as tight as it will go, around the center of the bottom panel. Tie a tight knot and trim off the excess floss.
5 Grab a generous handful of filling and gently pull it loose, repeating the process two or three times. With the pillow right side out and sitting on its gathered end, insert the filling through the opening, pushing it out to the edges. Continue until you have a firm, plump pillow. Now gather up the opening, tie a knot, and trim off the excess, as you did in step four.
6 Use an upholstery needle threaded with embroidery floss to attach a covered button to the center of the pillow front, and another to the center of the back, using the button-tufting technique.
For the button-tufting, thread a long upholstery needle with embroidery cotton. Starting with one of the central pairs of marks done in step five, insert the needle into the mark at the back. While holding on to the end of the embroidery cotton, push the needle through the padding and the mark on the front, then through the shank of a button, then back through the front mark and padding, and out again at the back where it first went in. Now thread it through the shank of a second button and tie the ends in a slip knot, as shown. Pull the ends tight and fasten securely. Repeat for the remaining buttons. Mount the hooks on the wall so that one will be above each tie and at a height to allow the headboard to sit on the bed. Fasten the ties and loop them over the hooks.
All projects kindly supplied by Torie Jayne from her latest book, Stylish Home Sewing (CICO Books, £14.99).