Could your garden do with a dash of colour?
Well, have no fear - we have the perfect tutorial for you to try today. Within 2-3 hours, you'll have your own stunning DIY Plant Wall - snazzy, eh?
You will need
PSB 18 LI-2 Ergonomic
PTK 3.6 LI
IXO with universal cutting adapter and off-set angle adapter
3mm wood drill bit
7mm drill bit matching the wall texture
Old window or decorative window frame
2 wooden strips 120 x 3 x 1.9cm
Poplar plywood board 80 x 40 x 0.3cm
Veneer sheets 40x50cm
2 flat fixing plates
4 metal brackets 25x25x17mm
6 wood screws 3.5x30mm
20 wood screws 3x14mm
2 screw hooks 7 x 120mm plus suitable plugs for fixing onto the wall
Chicken wire 100 x 50cm to fit the individual window
Variety of succulents of your choice: e.g. stonecrop or houseleek
Optional: wood glue
1a. For the plant wall, a substructure is initially required, which is later screwed behind the window frame and creates space for the bed. This is made up of a rectangular outer frame and a cross on the inside, which together are made from a total of six wooden strips. The exact length of the strips is determined by the size of the window used. The window we are using here measures 30x60cm.
1b. In the first step, the lengths of the strips for the substructure have to be determined. To ensure that the substructure is no longer visible in the final result, make sure that the yardstick is always centred on the window strips when measuring. In total, four strips are required for the external frame. Two strips that match the external vertical measurements of the window being used, and two strips of a length that matches the internal dimensions between the two upright strips previously mentioned. The cross on the inside is made from a horizontal strip of the same length as the horizontal strips mentioned above, and an upright strip of the length matching the internal dimensions from the lowest horizontal strip to the highest point of the window arch.
2. Now mark the measured lengths onto the two wooden strips with a pencil and then cut to size with the AdvancedCut 50. It is important that the wooden strips are fixed firmly to the workbench with screw clamps when doing this.
3. The next step is to screw together the frame for the substructure. To do this, put all of the cut-down strips (except for the upright strip for the cross on the inside) together to make one frame. Then draw three drill holes in the middle of each of the two upright strips of the frame: one on the half of the strip and two more on the left and right at the level of the opposite horizontal strips.
4. Use the PSB 18 LI-2 Ergonomic and a 3mm wood bit to drill one hole at each of the six points marked. Then screw the frame tightly through the pre-drilled holes.
5a. To complete the cross on the inside, now pick up the long upright strip and place it in the centre of the frame. Since this is integrated into the frame via notches, mark these first on two upper horizontal strips. First, centrally mark the width of the upright strip.
5b. The depth of the cut-outs is equal to half of the width of the upright strip - ie in this case, 1.5cm. Then repeat the process on the upright strip with the measurements for the top two horizontal strips.
6. Saw to size with the PST 18 LI following the markings for the notches. Afterwards, the upright strip can now be fitted onto the framework along the notches. Tip: for a better hold, some wood flue can be applied to the notches before putting them together.
7. Now lay the substructure onto the back of the window frame. Then stretch the veneer sheets for the rounded arch over the highest point of the protruding upright frame and fix on both sides with screw clamps. Then the width and length required can be marked on. To be able to staple the veneer strip to the substructure, the veneer strip should protrude one centimetre on each side. The width of the veneer strip will depend on the depth of the substructure, so that both are aligned.
8a. Then cut the veneer sheet to size with the IXO universal cutting adapter.
8b. Then attach it to the protruding upright frame using the PTK 3.6 LI. In order to avoid an uneven veneer, first attach the sheet on the left, then on the top, and then on the opposite side.
9. Now, the substructure is going to get its own back panel. For this, lay it onto the poplar plywood board, transfer the measurements onto the plywood and then cut it to size with the PST 18 LI and fix onto the frame with the PTK 3.6 LI.
10a. Lay the chicken wire onto the back of the window. To prevent this from slipping during the subsequent trimming process, place the substructure over it as additional weight. Then trim the chicken wire to the size of the window with the EasyPrune. Then put the substructure aside again and attach the wire with the PTK 3.6 LI to the back of the window.
10b. In order to be able to fix the substructure to the read of the window afterwards, four metal brackets with two screws each (3x14mm) are screwed vertically to all corners of the window frame using the IXO (including off-set angle adapter).
11. Nearly done! Now lay the substructure onto the back of the window and screw it together with the metal brackets. If the plant wall is later to be hung on a wall, two flat fixing plates must finally be screwed to the rear wall of the frame using the IXO and four wood screws (3x14mm). One flat fixing plate is screwed into the middle of the highest point of the round arch, the other in the middle of the bottom horizontal strip.
12. Now the decorative window can be filled from the top with soil. A spoon handle is suitable to push the soil through the chicken wire. Before you can plant the succulents, you need to gently expose the roots. Then guide the roots through the chicken wire with a wooden skewer. So that the plants will still remain in their position after the frame has been hung up, the window should be left lying flat for about two weeks first, as that is the only way to get the roots to establish themselves in the soil.
13. To attach the plant-filled window to a wall, drill two holes into the wall using the PSB 18 LI-2 Ergonomic and a 7mm drill that suits the wall structure, then insert the wall plugs, screw in the screw hooks (7x120mm) and hang the window by the flat fixing plates.
Tutorial courtesy of Bosch